surly world troller build

I recently acquired, after Surly’s many, many delays, a Surly World Troller frame set. Finally getting the chance to build it up is very exciting, in part because of the anticipation I have of bikepacking trips to come.

To document the build, I’m going to start this post. It will be a work in progress. First up, the basics I’ve worked out so far.

Frame and Contact Points:  

  • Surly World Troller frame and fork, size M (18″) in Milque Toast White
  • Seatpost: Ritchey aluminum
  • Saddle: Brooks B17
  • Stem: Ritchey WCS OS, 100mm
  • Bars: Jones Loop Bar
  • Grips:
  • Pedals: Performance Bike 10-pin Platform

Drivetrain and Brakes:  

  • Crankset: Shimano Deore 2×10 (40-28T)
  • Front Mech: Shimano XT
  • Rear Mech: Shimano XT
  • Chain: SRAM 10-speed
  • Cassette: Shimano XT 11-36T
  • Shifters: Microshift Thumb
  • Levers: Avid Speed 7
  • Brakest: Avid BB7 MTB mechanical discs, 160mm rotors

Wheels:

  • Rear: Shimano XT hub, 36-hole, Velocity Cliffhanger rim
  • Front regular: Shimano Deore hub, 32-hole, Sun-Ringle Rhynolite rim
  • Front dyno: SP PD8 disc dyno hub, 36-hole, Velocity Cliffhanger rim
  • Tires: Vitorria GEAX Saguaro 26×2.2

 

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Associate Professor of Early Latin America Department of History University of Tennessee-Knoxville

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5 comments on “surly world troller build
  1. ihoogendam says:

    I just finished my build but I am wondering what to do about the cable routing. I want to install cable splitters, but the frame is made for full housing, and has no cable stops so I’m not sure what to do. Any ideas?

  2. ctb says:

    I’m still trying to figure that out as well.

  3. dpd says:

    I’m still waiting on my frame to rock up to the LBS but I’ve been planning to use some of those ferrules that fit over the ends of the cable housing, cable tie those to the guides and see if that works. Otherwise I’ll have to machine something up. Whatever is used can’t be chunky and must stay put.

  4. dpd says:

    That took a while! I have my Troller and used 3 pairs of the Jagwire housing stops (http://www.jensonusa.com/Jagwire-Alloy-Housing-Stop-Black-5mm) on the frame so that I could use cable connectors. Still means that I have to use cable ties but I’ll work on that. The Jagwire stops aren’t the best design for this, they are meant to hook over the end of the frame’s cable mounts but they’d pop out from under the cable ties unless you cinch them down hard, there’s little for a cable tie to grip to. I also found that I needed a further cable tie around both derailleur housings about 2 inches behind the rear Jagwire stops to prevent the stops popping off. The stops for the rear brake were so much a hassle. Otherwise, it all works.

  5. dpd says:

    Opps, that should read “The stops for the rear brake were not so much a hassle”

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Chad Black

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I, your humble contributor, am Chad Black. You can also find me on the web here.
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